It is in a forward warped and difficult to play, and the octave is quite off, which is not good for the sound.
This type of bridge has a saddle like a fret, which is inserted into a groove to finish the bridge.
The saddle is inserted into one of the four grooves, so the octave can be adjusted roughly.
The adjustment has made it easier to play and the pitch feel better.
This is a Fender USA 70’s Precision bass with PU body repair, rewiring, joint screw hole correction and setup.
The rear PU had a coil disconnection at the solder point on the body, and no sound was coming out.
I tried to unravel the broken coil and it unraveled well, so I reconnected it and the sound came out.
To be honest, the PU is also a consumable item. Since PUs are made with very thin coils, they can be broken by shocks, etc. It is not unusual for old PUs to be broken.
The jack has been replaced with a new one due to poor contact and loss of sound.
The two screw holes in the neck joint were loose, so they have been fixed.
The sound is a little high, but it is not clogged (it is impossible to lower the string height) and it looks fine for use.
The sound is good and it looks good as an individual.
The bridge is positioned too close to the end? The octave position of the bridge is too close to the neck.
If the saddle is coming off the screw, it is possible to replace the screw with a longer one, but at the same time, the length of the spring needs to be increased.
After the adjustment, we were able to make it sound good and easy to play.
We don’t know the year of this instrument, but if it is an old Sadowsky, it may have some roughness, which is different from the current model, but if it is a current model, it is rare.
Many people think that “expensive and well-known brands are well made and the condition will always be in good condition”, but the condition basically changes regardless of the price or maker.
If not adjusted, they will be difficult to play and sound bad, so periodic adjustment is essential.
If you feel any discomfort while playing, you should adjust it.
This is a bridge stud correction and setup for a Stalin John Petrucci model, JP150.
The bridge bushings are easily pulled out, although they were purchased new.
There is still paint in the bushing hole, so it is likely that the hole was larger than the bushing when it was manufactured. It is thought to be a larger hole than the bushing at the time of manufacture.
Both bushings are quite loose and can be easily pulled out by hand.
The truss rod has no room at all from the beginning, and the truss rod is at the limit after adjustment.
The bridge is also in this condition and would normally be returned.
The bridge is in a state where the truss rod is at the limit of its capacity.
I think this model is also close to 300,000 yen, but considering the price, this condition is too much, so I can no longer recommend new instruments in recent years.
The string height is very low and the sound is very clogged up.
I don’t know if this guitar was designed for fast playing by the previous owner, but it is difficult to play if the string height is too low and sticky.
We adjusted the strings to the proper height and made it playable without any particular problems.
The lower the string height, the easier it is to play, but the more sound quality is lost, so the balance between the two is a matter of personal preference, so the correct adjustment is one that suits you.
