This is a pot replacement and setup for an Ibanez Prestige RG.
The pot was scratched, so we replaced it with a new one.
We adjusted the high string height, which made it difficult to play, and made it easier to play.
Ibanez guitars, especially newer, high-end models, feature necks reinforced with titanium for increased strength. However, some people seem to believe that these necks “do not warp” or “maintain a consistent warp.”
Even with such high-strength metal reinforcement, the neck will still warp, so it is essential to store the guitar with the strings loosened.
This is a setup for a Squier Classic Vibe 60 Precision Bass.
It was purchased new, but from the start, there was little slack in the truss rod.
Adjustments brought the truss rod to its limit.
Due to the weaker strength of modern wood, the truss rod is already set to a higher tension from the start, resulting in less initial slack.
When brand-new and freshly assembled, the neck is almost straight with 100% truss rod slack, but once strings are installed, it naturally bends forward.
This is a normal condition.
However, if the wood of the neck itself is weak, what happens? As expected, it bends forward significantly.
If it bends significantly, adjusting the truss rod by turning it extensively is necessary to correct the bend.
For this reason, new instruments are often sold with the truss rod already turned extensively from the start.
In other words, since the strength of wood has weakened in recent years, the solution would be to use reinforcing materials during production, but few manufacturers have implemented this.
Additionally, as expected from this state, due to the weak strength, the neck will continue to bend forward over time as strings are played.
Initial adjustment bow (over-tightened) + continued use bowing = limited truss rod adjustment range.
In recent years, it has become more common to see new instruments with almost no truss rod adjustment range or at their limit, and this is the simple reason why.
As you can see, someone with proper knowledge would naturally wonder, “Will this instrument last long?” and it is correct to say that such instruments have little chance of lasting long, even though I cannot predict the future.
It’s a shame because it sounds good and is easy to play.
To avoid purchasing such instruments, always ask the music store to check the “truss rod clearance” when purchasing.
This should be a standard procedure that music stores perform during inspection.
If they genuinely want to provide customers with good instruments, it should be a given.
However, in reality, they don’t do it.
Additionally, you must also check the effectiveness of the truss rod.
Even if there is ample truss rod adjustment, if it doesn’t work properly due to a malfunction, it’s meaningless.
Ideally, someone with knowledge should actually turn it themselves and judge the adjustment and effectiveness.
I hope this article reaches music stores.
Sell with consideration for the customer as a matter of course. Think about how you would feel if you were handed an instrument in this condition.
If you have the knowledge to indicate the amount of truss rod travel on used instruments, do the same for new ones.
It’s fine to sell instruments as “outlet items” at a discount due to reasons like insufficient truss rod travel, but clearly state the reason for the discount. If you don’t provide a reason, label them as “junk items” instead of “outlet items.”
If the instrument is in poor condition from the start, don’t sell it—return it to the manufacturer.
This is an adjustment and setup of the bridge saddle groove on a Gibson Les Paul.
The customer brought it in because the strings were breaking easily on the bridge side.
As I mentioned in a YouTube video in the past, I once had a customer bring in a brand new Les Paul that cost 380,000 yen because the first string would break after only a few hours of playing.
Ultimately, if the original parts quality or groove cutting condition is poor, the strings will remain prone to breaking, so if you’re concerned, it’s better to have the grooves cut even on a new guitar.
Using the guitar with strings that break easily will result in unnecessary string consumption.
The grooves had become rough due to wear, so we removed the burrs and smoothed them out.
It has a fairly large reverse bow and high string height.
Although it is a low-priced model, recent models are easy to play, and there are almost no problems compared to older models, so it is recommended for beginners.
We were able to adjust it to make it easy to play.
Additionally, at the customer’s request, the strings were left as they were for adjustment, but the octave position of the first string became irregular.
Even with new strings in the lower price range, the octave position often becomes irregular, but with old strings, it deviates significantly from the typical position.
As they are consumables, adjusting with new strings is definitely better, but recently, the cost of strings has increased, making it difficult to replace them casually.
This is a setup jack replacement for an LTD Explorer.
The jack was replaced with a new one due to poor contact.
There was no particular problem and it was in usable condition.
LTD was not in good condition in the past, but there was nothing wrong with the low-priced models in recent years.
Although the low-priced models can be used without any worries nowadays, it is necessary to check each part before purchase because some of them may be clogged with sound even if they are brand new.
This is a setup and jack replacement for a Fender Trojan Thunder model Precision Bass.
Although it was recently purchased, there was significant warping causing sound blockage. Upon adjustment, it was found that there was almost no slack in the truss rod.
The sound was distorted when active, and it appeared that the jack had been replaced internally, resulting in poor wiring.
We replaced the jack and the battery, which was dead, with a new one.
Additionally, parts were touching the internal noise-reduction coating, causing noise, and the internal finish was in very poor condition.
Later, the guitar warped again, making it difficult to play, so we adjusted the truss rod again.
The guitar was warped again, and when we turned the truss rod, it was close to its previous limit.
This condition is not due to warping from the previous adjustment, but rather due to the truss rod not being properly secured internally (a manufacturing defect).
Because the T-shaped part of the truss rod is not properly engaged internally, the truss rod is coming loose and causing the bowing.
While turning the rod does have an effect, the amount of truss rod travel has increased compared to when it was last adjusted, indicating that the rod is loosening internally.
In such a state, the issue will recur, so in this case, it is a defective product, and the only option is to contact the store where it was purchased for a return or repair.
If you were to repair it, it would involve removing the fingerboard and re-installing the truss rod, but this would cost tens of thousands of dollars.
Considering the cost, it is not practical, so you could replace it with a commercially available Fender neck, but even that would cost over 100,000 yen.
To identify such issues with the manufacturer’s condition, it is essential to first physically turn the truss rod to check its effectiveness and remaining travel before purchasing, as failing to do so could lead to problems later.
More precisely, since such symptoms may occur in individual instruments, it is necessary to turn the truss rod to its limit and confirm whether the condition changes (as in this case, where poor internal engagement causes the warp to return to its original state).
Additionally, it is advisable to confirm in advance how the store where you purchased the instrument will handle such issues.
The truss rod is located in an area that is not visible, and the amount of play or effectiveness cannot be confirmed without actually turning it.
A music store that thoroughly inspects every detail and accurately describes the condition of the instrument can be trusted.
However, such stores are rare.
Therefore, it is necessary to educate yourself and adopt a stance of not purchasing without first confirming these details.
Most stores prioritize profit over considering the needs of the buyer.
You may have an image that “expensive and well-known makers have strong necks and the warp is not stable,” but this is not the case, and when it warps, adjustment is necessary.
After the adjustment, it is easy to play and the overall sound is thick but crisp.
This is a rewiring and setup of a Beta 4 Custom made by Atelier Z.
This time we are replacing the preamp with a Humpback Engineering 2×2.
This is a low-priced pre-amp for a bass guitar, but it does not come with pots, etc., so you will need to provide your own.
This is a model that costs about 20,000 yen for the main unit only, but we can recommend it for its very good sound and flexibility.
The preamp itself has various switches and controls that can be easily adjusted to the bassist’s preference.
Everyone has their own preferred bandwidth, and everyone’s ease of use is different, so I don’t think there is a preamp that you can truly be 100% satisfied with.
In this sense, this model is a very high point preamplifier that can be customized to your liking.
It also has a middle frequency range that can be controlled by the middle frequency range.
If there is a drawback, I would like to see a dedicated pot included.
For example, I would like to use the semi-fixed adjustment part of the frequencies, but the resistance value of the pot is 500kΩ and the pot of the middle is 50kΩ.
I would like to use the middle as a dual axis pot (top is middle and bottom is middle frequencies), but there are no dual pots on the market with 50kΩ on top and 500kΩ on bottom, etc. It would be perfect if such parts were included.
Also, the pot resistance of the treble and middle pots is 50kΩ and 100kΩ for the bass, so it is not possible to use two 50kΩ pots for the treble and bass (although it is possible to connect them), and it would be nice to have a dedicated pot.
The 50kΩ pots are wired for treble/middle and bass independent of each other.
The sound quality can be controlled by switches, etc. according to your preference, and the EQ is easy to handle, so at this point, considering the price, I think this is the best preamp with a built-in bass.
It would be perfect if you could replace it with a model that comes with a dedicated pot.
